I love silky soft, delicate stuff like chawanmushi or the korean gyeran jjim and egg custard. I think chawanmushi should be a breakfast dish. With braised mushrooms and a pork broth. Imagine a good sized pot of that in the morning. But you’d probably need some rice to make it more substantial, that’s the main issue, it’s just too light. Maybe I’d just add more layers. Like minced pork at the bottom, then spinach, then mushrooms and cook it in a transparent glass so you can see the layers and the colors.

The other type of egg I love is Onsen Tamago, or eggs poached in a hot spring. In Singapore & Malaysia, we have a similar thing for breakfast that goes with a little bit of dark soy, some white pepper and coffee. That was like my fave breakfast when I was 9. Or 19. And every year in between. It’s an amazing example of what low temperature, slow cooking can do to create awesome texture in the slithery white and the unctuous, slimy goop that is the yolk. Plus, you don’t even need a vacuum machine or an immersion circulator. You just use the egg shell itself. What I’d like to see is a croque madame with Onsen Tamago, rice bun slices of “bread” and pork belly braised in soy. Like Kong Ba Pao with a poached egg.

Fried eggs are a treat. I like the variation in texture. When you watch an egg transform under duress from heat, it’s an interesting lesson that heat transfers over time and the changes in the egg are dependent on the temperature as well as the conductivity of the pan used. If you fried an egg slowly and gently, under low heat, you’d get a more uniform, smooth, white surface. If you just whacked it on high heat with loads of oil, you’d get a bubbly, fierce surface that’s sometimes completely rubbery on the outside and the secondary layer of white remains somewhat uncooked. Or you could just drop it in a deep fryer and get this very crispy and rubbery egg. I like the slow method because ultimately, the temperature of your stove is still high enough that the bottom of the egg gets crispy, then you get a relatively uniform softness to the white, which appears smooth and clean and the yolk stays liquid. I got this thing about eating fried eggs though. I bend over, mouth first towards the yolk, pressing my lips gently over the goldenness below and suck, very lightly until the surface breaks and I slurp to maximize the textural delight. Then I attack the whites with a knife and fork or bare hands, whichever’s available. Enjoying the contrast of crisp and silky. Then, with the second egg, I try to combine all three and use some toast or whatever to mop up whatever’s left on the plate. If I’m eating over some rice, I always mash the yolk into the rice and hack away with furious level chopstickery.

What kinda eggs does you like?