My Skull 5010XX have arrived at a point where they’re pretty much well worn and have lost a good amount of indigo. I’m pretty satisfied with where they are at the moment and recently gave them a refurb at the tailor’s, hemming it, fixing the broken pockets and stitching the back pocket back on plus covering yet another crotch hole to be.

However, whilst I still wear it very often, I also toyed with the idea of getting another pair of denimz and repeating the process again. I realized the sort of cut I liked, something slim but not skinny and tapered towards the hem. I compiled a list of denims and considered each one.

  • A.P.C New Cure (probably too skinny)
  • Warehouse 660
  • Flathead 310 (bit expensive)
  • Samurai S710 (bit expensive)

After that, the Warehouse 660 seemed likely but I just never ever pulled the trigger for whatever reason. This was also months back mind you. Maybe I just didn’t feel like getting something that will probably turn into something I already have. I mean, what’s the point? I also have a pair of raw denimz moulded to fit me and worn for probably 1 year plus realtime. Why get another?

Which leads me to Outlier. They make cycle to work garments but also just stuff everyone can get with. Their tagline is “Tailored Performance”, which is pretty apt. They deal in high tech fabrics that are designed to repel water, wick sweat and a whole host of other great things. The original product was a pair of pants that you could cycle in but also wear to work like right after without needing to change or anything, the 4 Season OG Pant. It also does what it says, according to most of the buzz online. However I’m not a cyclist so that wasn’t the pant that appealed to me. But they do have other stuff though.

Outlier also does a chino as well as a pair of climbing pants, a few different shorts and a lightweight summer trouser plus shirts, tees etc. The one pant that did appeal the most to me was their Dungaree, or to be more specific, the Keirin Cut Dungaree. It’s supposed to be cut roomier in the thighs, for cyclists who tend to have big thighs. I’m not a cyclist but lots of football in my youth mixed with genetic heritage means I have big thighs. Oh but it also happens to be relatively slim and tapers to the hem so it’s requisitely modern in cut. The sell was what got me.

Don’t call them jeans. There’s no denim in here. No cotton to blowout after a month or two of cycling. No cotton to suck up sweat and rain and clam up your life for hours as it sort of dries. If Levi Strauss set out today to sell pants to gold miners, do you think he’d pick a fabric centuries old or would he do what he did 160 years ago and find the toughest, most durable and most comfortable cloth around?

That just clicked and everything fell into place. I realized that denimz after denimz after crotch blowouts after repairs after more blowouts and more repairs is just annoying. For denimheads, it is something to look forward to. For me, I think whilst I was able to perhaps embrace the idea of a product breaking down as something inherent in its existence, I think I preferred if I had something that lasted. Modern fabrics and garment contruction methods mean we can do this and Outlier is just one example of a company making it happen. They’re making quality garments that are meant to last and work. Not $400 jeans you replace every 2 years because you’re into a culture. Not that the denim subculture is stupid, it is however, very impractical and somewhat hypocritical because jeans are typical triumphed as rough and ready workwear. Until you wear it out.

I am actually wearing said Keirin Cut Dungarees right now and I’ll say the roomier thighs/slim below the knee thing is fucking spot on. I got true to size and it is perfect in the waist. The fabric used is Outlier’s proprietary Workcloth Doubleweave Canvas. The outside kinda looks like a somewhat rough, textured canvas but the interior is smooth as silk. It kinda resembles a pair of jeans in terms of cut and style. In terms of weight and comfort, it is like a pair of superlight pants. I can only imagine what Outlier’s other pants feel like if this dungaree is made out of the heaviest fabric they actually use. You know how suit pants have a certain feel about them, the inside sorta feels like that.

The fabric has a Nanosphere treatment that helps to “self clean”. It’s also extremely breathable and has a bit of stretch in it as well. Overall, I think this has to be about the most comfortable garment I’ve placed on my body ever. I drizzled some water from a nearly empty glass onto it and it slipped right off, didn’t absorb a thing.

You also have to love the details. The matte black rivets for starters align very nicely with the modern aesthetic but peeking at my crotch reveals and extra panel where there’s usually none. The seam doesn’t go along your crotch, it just goes around it. Besides that though, it’s pretty much a 5 pocket pant. Certainly feels like it’s worth a lot more than the 220 incl. shipping I shelled out. If you have a store nearby selling their shit, I recommend you check em out.

I just hope my tailor is able to hem this ok. It’s like maybe one or two inches too long but maybe I could just roll with it. This pair of pants will never replace my beloved Skulls, they will never have the fades or honeycombs or the wear but they will probably form a very important part of my wardrobe from now on.

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